The Nanu Oya to Ella train is one of the world's great rail journeys. Here's how to enjoy it properly.
You have seen the photographs — travelers hanging out of blue-painted train doors as tea gardens roll past. What the photographs don't tell you is how much difference a small amount of planning makes to that journey.
The most photogenic stretch runs from Nanu Oya (the station for Nuwara Eliya) to Ella, a leisurely three-and-a-half hour ride through the finest scenery of the hill country. We reserve second-class seats on the left-hand side in the direction of travel — this gives you the best light and the widest views across the tea estates and Nine Arches valley. First-class observation carriages exist but are often stuffy and the windows can be sealed shut; second-class is more atmospheric.
Book well in advance. Reserved seats sell out four to six weeks ahead in peak season, and unreserved carriages are best avoided. We handle the booking, coordinate a driver ahead to meet you at Ella with your luggage, and time the transfer so you never lose a moment of your itinerary.
One quiet tip: the reverse direction (Ella to Nanu Oya) is equally beautiful, less crowded, and takes you towards a fine sunset over the tea country. If your route allows, we sometimes recommend it. Wear layers — the highlands are cool, especially with the windows open — and bring a small picnic. The pantry car is charming but reliably unreliable.
